The Dorfen Beer Hike is an easy, 8.4 mile (13.5 km) route.
A whisper of morning chill still clung to the Bavarian air as I stepped off the train at the quiet Schwindegg Bahnhof. My mission: a beer hike, a scenic pilgrimage through the rolling hills of Upper Bavaria, culminating in a hearty dinner amidst the vibrant Dorfen Volksfest.
A short stroll from the station led me to Schloss Schwindegg, a Renaissance-era moated fortress nestled within a leafy grove. Once a manor house of the Lords of Fraunhofen, this historic structure, built between 1594 and 1620, rests on medieval foundations. Its past, marked by periods as a veterans’ convalescent home, an SA leadership school, and part of a hospital, adds layers of intrigue. Now a private condominium, the Schloss retains an air of quiet grandeur.
I found a secluded spot in a small park, offering a view of the Schloss, and laid out my picnic. As the sun broke through the clouds, bathing the scene in a warm, golden light, I savored a leisurely snack. Then, following the scent of wildflowers, I headed south towards the hamlet of Loh.
Brauerei Z’Loh, nestled in a small, picturesque valley, is a hidden gem. The brewery, a traditional family affair is reached at the bottom of a wooded ravine. Copper brewing kettles displayed in large windows picked up the sunlight, and pleasant brewery aromas filled the air.
The 4th generation family brewery has been operating in Loh since 1928. It was founded by the great-grandfather of the current brewer, reportedly in response to a dispute over “black brewing,” kind of a beer version of moonshining. The current brewer is Babsi (Barbara Lohmeier-Opper), who brews a traditional Bavarian range (Helles, Märzen, Weißbier, Dunkel, Kellerbier, and Festbiers). Brauerei Z’Loh represents a piece of Bavarian brewing heritage, combining traditional artisanal brewing methods with a rich family history.
The hike from Loh to Dorfen unfolded through classic Bavarian countryside: a tapestry of rolling fields and small forests stretching to the horizon. As I approached Dorfen, the distant strains of oompah music grew louder. A bit quiet on a Sunday afternoon, the Dorfen Volksfest still provided a kaleidoscope of colors, aromas, and sounds. The air was a delightful mix of roasted chicken and roasted almonds mingling with the unmistakable aroma of beer.
The Dorfen Volksfests are documented since 1903 and have evolved over time to be a staple event in the town’s calendar. The current Festplatz came into being in 1962. The Volksfest occurs annually in August, and lasts for 10 days. It features classic elements of Bavarian folk festivals, including the beer tent, fairground rides, Oompah bands and other live music performances, parades (the Schützenumzug, or rifleman’s parade is a highlight on the last Sunday of the festival each year.)
The music was infectious, the atmosphere festive. I raised my stein, toasting to friendship, adventure, and the simple pleasures of a Bavarian beer hike. After polishing off a delicious Schweinehax (crispy) pork knuckle accompanied by a Maß of Z’Loh Festbier, I reluctantly made my way through the twinkling lights of the fair to the nearby Dorfen Bahnhof. The train journey back to Munich was filled with contented silence, punctuated by the occasional shared laugh with neighbors in the train car and the lingering taste of Bavarian beer.
As the train pulled into Munich Hauptbahnhof, I disembarked, my mind filled with memories of the day’s beer hike. The rolling land, the beautiful Schloss, the hidden brewery, and the friendly Volksfest had woven together to create an unforgettable experience. This is a great way to experience a slice of the true spirit of Bavaria, one sip and one step at a time.
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