I have hiked the popular route from Herrsching to Andechs Abbey several times, and it’s a very pleasant beer hike. This time, though, I wanted some variety – a different approach – another way to blend hiking in the serene Bavarian countryside with a rewarding lunch and beer culture experience. This is the tale of a different path to Andechs that begins off the beaten path, winds through picturesque landscapes, and culminates in both monastic tranquility and lakeside enjoyment. Read about hiking the traditional route to Andechs.
The adventure began not with the usual rush, but with a deliberate detour. Instead of taking the train to Herrsching, I opted for a train ride to Tutzing. From there, a short, scenic bus ride brought me to the unassuming village of Machtlfing. The bus continues to Andechs, but that would have been cheating. Stepping off the bus, the air immediately felt different – crisper, quieter, filled with the promise of exploration rather than the murmur of tourist crowds.
The hike from Machtlfing to Andechs wound through rolling fields, past charming farmhouses, and occasionally dipped into shaded woodlands. The sense of peace was profound, offering ample opportunity for quiet contemplation and appreciation of the idyllic Bavarian landscape. The iconic tower of Andechs Abbey slowly emerged on the horizon, a beacon drawing me onward.
Climbing the “Holy Mountain” toward the abbey’s stunning Baroque church and historic buildings, you can’t help but feel the history and spiritual significance of the place. I arrived at the destination for the first leg of my pilgrimage for the day, partway up the hill. The Andechser Bräustüberl is a place of vaulted ceilings – if only they could speak and tell the stories of the historic brewery tavern. Here you can indulge in a well-earned traditional Bavarian lunch – perhaps a succulent Schweinebraten or a hearty Wurstsalat. Whatever is chosen is perfectly complemented by a world-famous Andechs Klosterbier.
The Andechser Klosterbrauerei stands as a testament to centuries of Benedictine brewing tradition, crafting a range of renowned beers. From the crisp and refreshing Andechser Hell to the rich and complex Doppelbock Dunkel, a true highlight of their collection (and my choice), their brews are celebrated for their exceptional balance and distinctive character.
Rather than the more formal-seeming Bräustüberl, I chose the Biergarten. It is a series of outdoor terraces with dense seating rather than a traditional, tree-covered beer garden, but it’s a great place to hang nonetheless. Situated high on the hill, it offers expansive panoramic views. You can see for miles, with the rolling green hills giving way to the distant peaks of the Bavarian Alps. After the morning hike, the reward of a great lunch from the canteen, a great beer, and a great view was hard to beat.
The vibe was the usual lively mix of pilgrims, hikers, and locals who had made the journey to the abbey. There’s a palpable sense of accomplishment and celebration in the air as people enjoy their well-earned meals and beers.
But my journey didn’t end at the Abbey. Whoa, I was halfway there … Whoa oh, I was living livin’ on a prayer (sorry Bon Jovi). With my appetite satisfied and my thirst quenched, I embarked on the next leg: a picturesque descent to Brauhaus Herrsching. This small brewery offers a different, yet equally delightful, atmosphere. Near the shores of Ammersee, it served as a pleasant place for a break on my way to the train station at Herrsching and the ride back to Munich.
Brauhaus Herrsching offers a contrast to the monastic gravity of Andechs. It has the feel of a casual destination roadhouse/event venue. The brewery is known for classic Bavarian beers, focusing on the well-loved styles that define the region’s brewing heritage. The Herrschinger Helles is a crisp and approachable pale lager, the Kloster Urtrunk is a traditional Kellerbier/Zwickelbier, the Kloster Urdunkel is a malty Munich Dunkel, and the Kloster Weisse is a classic Hefeweizen.
From Brauhaus Herrsching, it’s a short and pleasant stroll, much of it along the lakeside promenade, to the heart of Herrsching. If your timing is right, as mine was, you might stumble upon a delightful surprise. A small festival was underway at the lakefront park in Herrsching—local crafts, more food, more beer, and seemingly few other tourists.
Finally, the sun was beginning to drop toward the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. I started the short walk to the Bahnhof and the 45-minute S-Bahn ride back to the city. The quiet beauty of a countryside hike with the historic allure of a renowned abbey and historic brewery, the convivial atmosphere of a country brewery, and the unexpected exploration of a local festival provided a reminder that sometimes, the most rewarding adventures are found when you choose to stray just a little bit from the well-worn path.
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